Sunday, October 7, 2018

No Guardrails

Single-handed ocean sailing affords a primal connection with the natural world in which you are completely dependent on yourself and your boat.  Any assistance is hours or days away.  I have intensely prepared myself and the boat for this experience given the significant risks.  As a means of introduction I have begun to enter offshore single-handed races. These offshore events have focused my preparation through specific entry requirements.  They've got me reading books, some of which scare me; networking with like-minded sailors, who generally assume I do not know what I am doing; and working with professionals who just charge a lot.  Gradually I am wrapping my mind around the reality of being out in the ocean alone. 

In no other sport do we personify our equipment as we do in sailing, referring to our vessels as "she."   That reference acknowledges the reliance we have on our boat to carry us safely.  But the safety of our boats is only as great as the thought and effort we put into preparation.  An overlooked detail can cause quite a few things to unravel.  Therefore our reliance is actually on ourselves, by way of how much attention we have paid to preparation of the boat.  The safety of the boat is no better than the preparation we put into her, down to the last shackle. It all comes back to self reliance

The nature of racing itself is valuable because crossing a body of water quicker is safer.  You are exposed to weather variables for less time. 

You either have to start off with smaller races or they'll let you do a “qualifying passage” and jump ahead.   I decided to do both.  There are some events that I want to do in the next year and I want to be allowed to register.  The risk of only planning one qualifying event is that sailing plans don't often seem to go as planned.  Indeed I, along with everyone else, dropped out of the race due to lack of wind 90 miles into it, so would not have been long enough to qualify.  Even my qualifying passage almost could not be completed due to problems I will soon describe.  

They probably make you do it to test your nerve as much as anything.  You’re a long way out there. For my qualifier I sailed straight out, southwest into the ocean 50 miles, starting from Northeast Harbor, Maine. I turned back and came within 15 miles, near a rocky outpost with a lighthouse called Mt Desert Rock, but had to go back out again because it not only had to be 100 miles, but I had to be out 30 hours and I was back too early. At one point I was standing on the companionway ladder when I heard, before I saw, a whale come up for a rather loud breath of air less than a boat length away. He must have known about me well before I knew about him.  He dove and resurfaced four more times — either that or he had four friends — before he smoothly lumbered away.  The cruising guide shows silhouettes that portray how much of the whale is under water when you see them surface. This guy was probably 35’ long, or about the size of my boat.

In the morning I woke (more on sleep later) to find a large clevis pin on the deck.  This pin was one-half inch in diameter and 1.75” long.  Pins like this are used to attach the wires which hold up the mast so finding a loose one is bad.  It was obviously used to secure something substantial, although what that was was not immediately apparent to me. The wind was thankfully light.  I had an odd sense of unease, with no sight of land and a boat with something possibly very wrong. I counted the shrouds which were all there.  I banged my palm on them and they were all holding.  I remember thinking “Crap, if my mast comes down I am going to have to motor back and then my qualifier won’t count.” I then went downstairs to plot my position. I’m not sure why I did that, but there is something comforting about plotting position. Afterwards I have wondered if my first instinct should have been to drop the sails. Instead I was just taking it in.  Then I saw it, the boom vang laying on the deck. My vang is an extendable rod and was still attached at the base of the mast, but it had fallen free of the boom. Easy fix and I was never in danger. The vang prevents the wind from lifting the boom and, close-hauled in light winds, does not come into play. However, if I had dropped the sail to relieve stress on the mast, the boom would have smashed my dodger, bending its metal frame, and jeopardized my ability to handle worse weather.   Later it would settle in that whoever put my boat together missed something/  What else did they miss? It could easily have been a lot worse. I prefer a higher margin of safety.

Fast forward a few weeks and I am on underway from Somes Sound to Rockland to participate in my first single-handed race. It is 110 miles long but all within 20 miles of shore.  The mast and its supports have been inspected by a different yard and I have a few new pieces of gear to play with. The trip to the start is 40 miles with light wind directly opposing me, so I am motoring, but I don’t expect to go anywhere in a sailboat without something breaking. This time the autopilot stops working.  The ability to have a mechanical device steer the boat so a single person can do the litany of other tasks is vital enough to the single-hander that when I mentioned its failure to the other single-handers that night at our pre-race meeting, the story got everyone's attention.  Fortunately I had saved the old, cracked electronic control unit that came with the boat after I had proactively replaced it a couple years ago.  When I swapped the current one for the old, it worked. Good to save spares.  And a windvane.

It became clear at the Maine Rocks Race that I need to work out sleep.  For my qualifier I had set a timer, allowing myself to try and sleep for 2 hours. I had laid awake through three of these before falling asleep.  For the race a seasoned competitor, who didn’t buy my argument that Mortessier seemed to let himself sleep, told me I needed to sleep in 20 min segments, in-between which I was to get up for a quick scan, not even fully awakening, then go back to sleep.  Getting horizontal, he said, was essential. So beginning at sunset I started attempting rest periods in my bunk.  But my mind wasn’t turning off — how could I make the boat faster, could I actually win, was it safe to have my spinnaker poled out while asleep, what was that unusual noise? If one of my alarms went off I would have to get up, but then I would reset the timer on the iPad.  I eventually switched off my VHF but I am not sure I should have done that.  Serenade of the Seas, the 900 for cruise ship, had probably been trying to hail me well before my AIS alarm sounded, notifying me that we were on a collision course. They turned and blew their horn in what I figured was annoyance with me.

I know I fell asleep once, but am not convinced I slept more than that.  When I got tired of trying I would just get up and sail the boat.

I've rationalized that during my previous offshore passages (3 so far) I have not slept the first night, but after a while I get into a groove and sleep as soon as I hit my bunk.  Hopefully I can repeat that during longer single-handed passages, but with other crew on board I get 4 hours to sleep.  I am not convinced I need to or even can keep cycles as short as 20 mins.  And with an alarm on my AIS transceiver, a radar guard zone and and off-course alarm on my autopilot I wonder if I have to.  So sleep issues are still a work in progress.

I did feel good about my ability to prepare the boat and to sail the boat.  It gave me confidence that I did not find glaring omissions in my preparation.  I was a bit clumsy with the spinnaker pole, but it was brand-new to me the day before.  To be extra safe I thought through my maneuvers obsessively before carrying things out, and for the most part they all went smoothly. I screwed up the gybe to put me on my final approach to Mt Desert Rock.  In the dark I went to put the new spinnaker sheet on the winch and found I still had another line on it. In the moment it took to get things straightened out the big sail started to wrap around the headstay. Another time I was up on deck with my headlamp and stepped on a jib sheet and causing my foot to slide out.  I was secured to the boat with a harness and tether, but still did not like landing on my butt in the dark.  

I rationalize the intimidation I feel with the presumption that it would be foolish not to feel intimidated.  There are no guardrails, no reliance on someone else’s liability. Out here I am completely reliant on my boat, my preparation and my presence of mind.  There is ample reason to feel intimidated. 

One of the wonders of sailing is getting the boat into the “groove,” in which the sails are working together to create aerodynamic lift while the water flow over the keel creates hydrodynamic lift.  It’s a balanced and powerful sensation that, with skill, can be sustained. But I don’t have to go into the ocean for that. Being out on the ocean adds a sense of separation, but also connection.  Out here the immersion in nature is complete, a visceral connection to a power greater than myself.  The spiritual association is unavoidable.

You’re tired, constantly damp, nearly always busy. It is not a physically restful vacation, but it does clear the mind.  Maybe there is something to the Nitsche philosophy that hardship leads to understanding oneself. I come back from offshore sailing trips feeling alive



Sunday, September 30, 2018

Offshore menu and provisioning list

This menu worked very well.  We deviated some
Dinners Fettuccini Alfredo w/ canned chicken, peas, Fettuccine 1lb, Alfredo sauce 16oz 3 cans chicken, 1 can peas Goya rice and beans packet with polish sausage
Polish was sausage 16oz, Goya rice and beans 8oz, 3 Spaghetti w/ meat sauce, green beans
Spaghetti 1lb, ground beef or Italian sausage 1lb, Sauce 26oz Garlic Can green beans 

Hamburgers, potatoes, corn —1st night
Ground beef 1lb, buns, 6 potatoes, Spinach salad Chix peas with Indian sauce over rice
Chick pea 16oz can, Indian Masala sauce, rice 

Beef stew in pressure cooker, spices, 2lbs stew meat, oil, onion, carrots 4, potatoes 8 beef broth, tomato paste, wine Spice: basil, thyme, salt, Pepper/ flour 2TBS 
Black Bean tacos twice — night two: 2 cans black beans Cheese 4 oz Tortillas cabbage, avocado, tomatoes, Hot sauce Rice spices
Black eyed peas with bacon and sausage in pressure cooker
Dried black-eyed peas, 16oz Back bacon 1/2 lb Kielbasa Sausage Onion Garlic 3 Chick broth 6 cups Tomato paste 1/4 cup, Spices, Honey 1 TBS Green pepper
Canned food extras Beans 3 Refried beans 3 Chili 3 Pasta and sauce 3 Soups 6 Stew 3
Cooking supplies Oil 12 oz Vinegar 12 oz Butter 2 stick Honey 8 oz
Lunches Ham chunk 2.5 lbs Salami hard chunk 2 lbs Tuna 6 cans Hummus 2 Cheddar 1 lb Swiss 1 lb Cucumber 2 Bread 4 loaves Mayonnaise, relish, mustard, ketchup
Sides Three bean salad 3 Cole slaw
Cabbage,
Fruit Canned peach halves Canned pineapple Apples Oranges Honey dew melon
Snacks Granola bars Nuts Dried fruit
Raisins Carrots
Drinks Wine 6 Powdered milk Powdered sugar drink Coke 2 cases
Breakfast Yogurt 4 Granola 4 lbs Eggs 4 dozen Pancake mix 32 oz
Sweets Chocolate Cookies
Personal
(bring your own) Water bottle Travel mug Head lamp Towel

Sunday, September 9, 2018

Screwing into fiberglass w/o cracking it

For your run-of-the-mill fiberglass boat with gelcoat, these drill sizes should suffice to make a nice pilot hole.

#4 use 3/32"
#6 use 1/8"
#8 use 9/64"
#10 use 11/64" (or 5/32" in a pinch)
#12 use 3/16"

To drill and put the screw in without cracking the gelcoat, here's what I do. YMMV.

1) Use a 1/16" drill and drill in REVERSE until you get through the gelcoat in into raw fiberglass or wood, then you can put the motor in forward and finish up.

2) Use a countersink bit to chamfer the hole to be a little larger diameter than the screw you are going to insert.

3) Use the appropriate size drill for your pilot hole and again, drill it in REVERSE until you get through the gelcoat.

4) If possible, use a hand screwdriver to insert the screw and GO SLOW and DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.

Some optional ideas and methods....

-- You can use masking tape over the area you are drilling and it will further help prevent gelcoat cracking.

-- You can make a groove in the screw, on each side, from the point up to the screw's widest area which makes it look like a regular self-tapping screw. I have not used this method but I hear it works well to prevent cracking. I think it gives the debris a place to go and doesn't bind up as much.

-- You should probably use 3M 4200 (or silicone at the very least) on all screws if you want to ensure no water gets behind them.

(lifted from CarolinaSkiffOwner.com)

Saturday, September 8, 2018

Project List

2016
Switch shaft seal to stuffing box 350
Replace Cutlass bearing 1805
Repack rudderstock stuffing box 300
Clean engine mounts 180
Steering service 250
Seacock service 475
Exterior varnish 3290
Add salt water foot pump at galley sink
Head rebuilt
Trinka conversion to sailing dinghy 2000
Traveler redesign- self
New Sea Frost electric fridge w/ freezer box 5290
New Firefly batteries (2 Group 31) 1382
Victron 702 battery monitor 236
Replaced all lights with LED - self
added Solar panels
replaced VHF radio 260
added AIS transceiver 2120
Safety equipment added
  Zoidak liferaft
  jacklines
  flares (SOLAS), smoke signals, rocket flares)
  throw line
  SOS Dan Bouy
  EPIRB battery replaced
Irridum 9555 sat phone 1705
Storm jib (used) 145
Added running backs 1600
Added boom padeyes for preventers 725
Added Lexan drop boards for offshore 425
oil change
Added secondary winches (Lewmar Ocean Series 30CST) 1350 - self
Repaired keel damage from running aground 1300
Replaced Autopilot controller 50
Repair boom gooseneck 580
2017
Replaced cabin top winches and added bases to raise them and prevent wraps 1500 - self
Sailrite LSZ-1 sewing machine 
Canvas:
  built boom-hung sun awning - self
  built sun cover for dry storage - self
  built covers for teak cap rail - self
Replaced shower sump pump
Fuel polishing and fuel tank cleaning
Removed engine:
  replaced engine mounts
  replaced wiring harness which was undersized
  replaced starter
  removed rust and painted engine
  replaced impeller
oil change
2018
Irma repairs done in Caribbean:
  Replaced standing rigging after Irma 9174
    LC 32 ProFurl furler
    added Wichard wheel backstay tensioner
  Replaced lifelines 1234
  Bow pulpit repaired 1685
  Replaced VHF antenna, masthead tricolor LED, windex, Raymarine wind tranducer 2233
  Replaced wires (wind, VHF and power) in the mast
  New lines - boom vang, main sheet, flag halyard
  Installed radar pole 1800
  Replaced Xintex s-2 Propane monitor (due to water damage) 486 - self
  Replace Victron (due to water damage) - self
Bottom heavily sanded and painted
Repacked propeller shaft stuffing box - self (partly)
Winches cleaned (7) - self
reduced friction in reefing system with low-friction rings - self
added Jordan Series Drogue 1400
Irma repairs done in Maine:
  Replaced starboard rubrail 6300
  Replaced starboard caprail 10600
  Rebedded starboard stanchions
  Rebedded starboard genoa fairlead track
  Replaced starboard chainplates and repaired bulkhead below them that was crushed in Irma
  Replaced taftrail 4300
  Repaired hull-deck joint on stern
  Reinforced aft chucks (so they can anchor running backs)
  Steaming/deck light
Rebuilt all portlights (12)
Replaced both overhead hatches
Awlgrip touch up
Repaired blown out Genaker 1000
Installed Monitor wind vane steering 7500
Rig inspection 1000
Added 6:1 purchase on the main outhaul 400
Added reef line fairleads at the boom gooseneck
Installed a rope clutch for the jib furling line
added VHF speaker at helm 300
Filled the fastener holes in the cabin end
Patched the nonskid
Trimmed the cabin sole lift outs
added Forespar carbon fiber spinnaker pole  2900and mast track
2019
Irridium Go! with external antenna and Predict Wind subscription
sails 22k
  Quantum 6000 main 6800 and jib 6300
  Solent w/reef 3500
  Hood MPG drifter
Convert to 2-line, 3-reef system 7300
Dyneema stay added for Solent 4600
halyards and headsail sheets -- built by me
soft shackles for Solent -- built by me
Clean bilge and under floorboards after flooded
Strip varnish 1650
Repair stbd rubrail joint
Rebuild wheel brake 750
Manual bilge pump inside cabin 1700
Recalibrate Raymarine wind instrument
Replace autopilot control head with one found on eBay
Install light on wind vane
Service windlass 1500
Install USB outlets 450
Energy system install -- 140A alternator, regulator, new pully to accommodate wide, flat belt 3000
Clean up poor electrical wiring 3300
Battery charge/discharge test - to evaluate existing batteries
Service seacocks which were underwater when the cabin flooded in hurricane 200
Repair floor timbers 2150
Achilles inflatable floor dinghy 4000
Yamaha 10HP outboard 3000
Rocna 20kg anchor
Shaw and Tenney oars for tender
new Espar heater 4400
new water heater 1800
exhaust 1250
engine inlet hose1000
in Noank:
Gerry and Sandy reset spreader height
New electronics 12,000
    Raymarine chart plotter, type 2 Autopilot, Quantus digital radar, 4 repeaters to helm and nav station
Replace Xantek propane sniffer again
build storage for Sailrite sewing machine in locker
installed rope hanger, copied Bluebird
fixed v-berth shelf, first of several times
splice anchor snubber
adjust stuffing box (becomes regular chore
oil in outboard motor's carburetor because stored wrong side up
Trinka centerboard insert to keep water from coming in centerboard while towing, w/Sandy VanZandt
rebuilt windlass with parts from a bike store at picnic table in Marthas Vineyard
John Williams:
seal antifreeze leak forward side engine hose
oil change
New hoses to and from head, holding tank, thru hull after I tried to unclog for a full day 1460
new Force 10 stove 2250
rebuild gooseneck and reefing blocks after failure 1500
lag bolts in stern mooring chock after block ripped out, Leif unable to get nut on end 440
in Maine:
added rope clutches for 3rd reef, Leif pointed out they were backwards, repeated
replaced water pressure pump
replaced shower sump pump but it failed again shortly thereafter
hung internal clothes line and food hammocks
laced leathers onto oars
Life raft recertified
sewing:
canvas case for electronic keyboard
laundry hamper
bags under aft quarter berth shelf
bag for v-berth forward panel
remove runners from bottom of hard dinghy and fill holes
unclog engine seacocks many times
remove lobster pot from prop in 52F water
Built shelf for third battery 
3 new Firefly batteries for expanded house bank
Steiner binoculars replaced (warranty)
in Chesapeake:
new refrigerator thermostat due to corrosion of old one
replace Dyneema Solent stay with Coligo
increased purchase in Solent stay tensioner
replaced steering cables after finding serious fray
loud siren for Raymarine radar and AIS alarms
in Caribbean:
reattach Autopilot base which ripped off because Monitor wind vane was engaged at same time
replaced spinnaker with used one from Bacon Sails
thru bolted chart plotter bracket to swing arm after wood screws ripped out underway
remove water and repair force 10 stove due to salt water
Developed new fairlead for Solent halyard -- 4 month process, completed in Pointe a Pitre
reroute solar wires to bimini
Marionics repairman found corrosion of cord going to AP control head
Tracked down freshwater leak and found two
Replaced engine pulley because a bolt fell out then other holes elongated creating wobble
replaced propeller zinc underwater
repair Genoa sheet after wrapped around propeller, invented way to lengthen non-tensioned tail
replace bilge pump float switch
Rebuilt head foot pump
Teak oil exterior wood several times
T9 protection of hinges and latches
several patches to Bimini
reset porthole clearances with Leif and reduced windows which leaked
replaced bilge alarm siren with one from auto parts store on Guadeloupe
LFR for spin downhaul
reattach wood trim piece that had gradually accrued
oil change (1st one by self with IYM pump)
rig inspection by Wickhams Cay II riggers found set screw missing from fuller
new Wichard back stay tensioner (warranty)
lube masthead shivs
replaced lifeline gate
IYM replaced shifter cable in Nanny Cay
new Raymarine EV-1 compass (warranty)
weld nav station chair base back together
new washer that fits into slot on helm axis
built curtain so Ruby could have her own place
spliced traveler
respliced Genoa halyard after chafe found
sewed leather spreader tip covers which Gerry had left taped after
cleaned winches
rebuilt fender board
sail repairs at Quantum after passage home (torn main luff, torn Genoa cover, luff flutter warranty)
after year of cruising:
Fishing Bay marina in Deltaville repairs (never again)
    oil change
    lube thru-hulls and replace galley sink thru-hull
    replace frozen exit block base of mast
    repair fuller foils first time
Annapolis electronics
    separate auto-pilot wiring from chart plotter circuit
    sent Raymarine chart plotter in for warranty repair
M Yacht repairs
    forward bulkhead repair where it was buckling
    sand and paint bottom
    inspect and lubricate rudder bearings
    replaced impeller
    repack stuffing box
    new window gasket (incredibly effective solid tubing)
    buff topsides
    new bilge float switch
    replace balls in Harken Battcar system for main luff track
Quantum sail repair 1100
Mystic
    new Victron charger/inverter (Lucas)
    troubleshoot poor Vhf/AIS signal
        new splitter
        rerun antenna cable from splitter to mast
        new antenna
    WiFi antenna and router
reinforce V-berth shelf with wooden block (self)
replace pulpit-mounted fairlead block for furler line (self)
replace fridge gasket (self)
replaced o-ring gaskets for Dorade vents (self)
replaced exit blocks for Monitor with Protexit Blocks (self)
in Bermuda (self)
   reconnect compass light via solder
   replace Monitor lines after chafe  
Fort Rachel
    fixed fulrer foils properly by dropping headstay (Jeff Morgan)
    haul and wash before Maine rocks Race
replaced forward most pulpit-mounted block for fuller
Maine Yacht Center 2021
    starter cable cleaned
    oil change
Maine Yacht Center 2022
    Base of mast corrosion cleaned up 1000
    Mast step repaired 225
    Zincs 250
    Espar repair 1000
    New Propane Cylinders (too embarrassed to list cost)
    Bow light repair  450
    reconnect autopilot to Raymarine control to enable auto wind vane 650
    Wire conduit in mast replaced along with wires including better Vhf cable 1700
    new Vhf antenna
    New starter motor 900
    New fuel gauge
    Tachometer repair and clean rat's nest of wires behind control panel
    Move batteries forward to move weight out of stern 1500+
    New starter motor and relay, moved forward
    Keel bolts tested with torque wrench 360
    Outboard motor serviced
Built new set of hanks that are longer for Solent and a set for staysail with pull ties
Discussed changing rake with Chuck Paine and Brian Harris but did not change it
Sent GO! to OCENS who confirmed its death
Leather steering wheel cover, boat gift from crew
Huge down wind spinnaker, Quantum 6500
Correction of data loops in Raymarine by Lyman Morse 900
Hired install of impeller in Rockland 150 (I had part)
Installed Harken 150 cam cleats for cockpit winches (gift from crew)
Off season projects winter '22-'23
    new Windsor life raft
    replace spin head swivel block
    clips to hold traveler line at helm
    gaskets for all opening ports
    respliced wire staysail stay with Dyneema (using stretched Solent stay)
    repaired spinnaker tack line which had chafed by resplicing it (shortened)
    new larger diameter preventer lines
    sewed another patch on Bimini
    built fender covers with Sailrite kit given to me as a gift
    obtained over-the-top blocks from Schaefer in an attempt to reduce Monitor chafe
    replaced solent halyard
MYC winter '22-'23
    standing rigging 10k
        retained Merriman turnbuckles
        new Harken Mark IV furler
    new diverter for solent
    rebedded deck hardware to address leaks in vicinity of stbd dorade vent 1750
    replace spin halyard block, shackle (nearly worn through) and bale 450
    keel fairing 5k
    bottom paint 1350
    Beta 30 engine, Balmar 170A alternator 15k plus install
    new bow running light placement on either side rather than centerline 2k
    new salt water foot pump in galley 265
    new trash can runners 500
    




Sunday, April 29, 2018

Reducing friction in single-line reefing

New system at luff
New system at leech






Rings atttach to leech via Dyneema loops.  The crossover
is at the far side of the ring, as shown with the black mark,
so that the loop is reinforced with the seizing















The friction in my reefing system was making feel not confident that I could reduce sail in a blow.  With the reefing line on a winch, in moderate winds, the resistance led me to bust the block at the base of the mast which turns the line back toward the cockpit.  I believe I have solved the situation by attaching low friction rings at each of the mainsail's six reefing cringles.   A test of my new system in 15kt winds on a narrow reach showed significantly less resistance with an ability to pull it in by hand.

Rings attach to luff with webbing. Sewn and seized
The friction in the system occurred where the reefing line passed through the rings pressed into the sail, one in the luff and one in the leech for each reef.  At each pressed ring, the line is forced to make a low-radius, 180 degree turn around a non-smooth surface.  Low-friction rings allow the line to be turned over a smooth surface with a larger radius.

The webbing attachment uses a ring while the Dyneema
loops are built going through the leech cringle
Before going with low-friction rings, I had actually bought blocks that I was going to attach at the sail cringles. In my perseverations about the weight I would be hanging from the sail, I learned about the option of using low-friction rings from the Justine Owners Facebook group. My local sailmaker, Tim at Sailcrafters, helped me figure out how it was probably done.


I attached the low-friction rings to the leech with Dyneema loops.  These are easy to do, clean looking and strong.  I got the advice to make the loops 6" long (when collapsed) from Jaimie at Sailing Totem.  Six inches is about as short as you can make it using 6mm Dyneema line.

Dyneema loop before the ends are trimmed and drawn into
itself.  This has been floating around our house for months.













There are good videos on how to make Dyneema loops.  Bury 6" on each side for a loop made with 6mm line (whatever the diameter of the line in mm, you bury that much in inches).